FREE PLANS & THREE-PART VIDEO SERIES
Deer & Bear Proof Garden Fence with Raised Beds
Build a modular garden enclosure that combines raised beds with a tall, well-braced fence – without pounding posts, or digging holes and setting posts in concrete.
Build the Project in Three Video Lessons
Start with Video 1 for the design and layout. Video 2 covers the raised beds; Video 3 covers the fence and gate. Each lesson now has its own guide, chapters, resources, tools, FAQs and full transcript.
VIDEO 1
Design, Layout and No-Dig Overview
Understand the modular concept, terrain options, post bracing, small-animal barriers, gate support and wildlife-deterrence strategy.
VIDEO 2
Build and Level the Raised Beds
Set up accurate production cuts, assemble the bed modules, add under-bed mesh and establish elevations across the site.
VIDEO 3
Build and Attach the Garden Fence
Complete almost all enclosure construction after the beds: posts, braces, stepped heights, routed rails, mesh and gate.
FREE 24-PAGE PROJECT GUIDE
Download the Garden Enclosure Plans
Use the videos to see Henry’s construction methods and the plans for the project layout. The guide covers adaptable design options, lumber and material guidance, ground preparation, raised-bed layouts, post spacing, cap and rail details, bracing, gate construction and wildlife-deterrence considerations.
PDF · 24 pages
A Raised Bed & Garden Fencing Designed For No Digging, No concrete or post pounding!
The raised beds form the base of the enclosure, support the fence posts and create a effective fence around your entire garden to keep wildlife out and protect your fruits and vegetables!
Why the No-Dig Garden Fence Works
Each fence post fastens to a completed raised-bed and is stabilized with an angled brace. Once adjoining beds are connected, the beds provide a continuous base for fence posts and gate. This avoids the need for digging post holes, setting 4×4s and placing concrete.
- Approximately 7½ feet of overall fence height in Henry’s design
- Raised-bed sections that can be repeated or omitted
- Wire mesh discourages smaller animals from digging under and up into beds
- A reinforced gate is tied into the raised-bed structure and posts to prevent sagging
Plan for the Site Before You Start
Start with overall length and width, gate position, bed access, paths, water supply and the direction of the grade. Each bed should sit level, but one bed can step up or down from the next. That makes the design adaptable, of course, a flatter site requires less work, but the design allows for sloped sites.
The tall fence, strong mesh, well-braced frame are intended to discourage deer, bears and smaller animals. However, it is not 100% guaranteed, depending on how determined animals are where you live, you may need to add electric fence wire along the middle exterior and top rails.
Henry’s Note To Readers: In 2026, I built another one of these enclosures and changed the fasteners used to assemble the raised beds and attach 2×6’s to the beds. For the raised beds, I used 5/16″ x 4″ GRK RSS Structural Screws which have a much higher drawing power (will pull slightly warped boards tight no problem), are thicker and will not easy pull out or loosen over time due to larger head. I pre-drilled the face boards with a 3/16″ bit – 3/4″ in from ends and 1 1/2″ from top and bottom edges to ensure no splitting. I did not pre-drill ends of short end pieces and no wood split (using SPF lumber).
Posts holes were located about 2 1/2″ up from bottom, and 2 1/2″ down from top of raised beds and 1″ in from the edges for a total of 4 screws per post – for these I used 1/4″ x 2.5″ long GRK RSS screws (no poke through and prevents getting cut in future) – 3/16″ pilot holes used for these too but only in the posts, not through into the beds and again, no splitting.
While they may be more expensive, in my opinion these are 5x as good as typical #8 or #10 construction screws and much stronger – and the large head provides a lot of draw power and will keep the bed corners tight for a lot longer. If you have already built an enclosure, you can still add these if you find the beds appear to be pulling apart in the corners.
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND USING THE GRK RSS SCREWS ( also, check out my review on them here )
BUILT AND ADAPTED BY VIEWERS
Customer Builds on Two Very Different Sites
These projects show the scope of the design more clearly – one project on a level flat surface, the other on a very steep slope (very impressive build).
A Strong Enclosure on Flatter Ground
Steve B. in Port Sydney, Ontario used the project plans and videos to replace a wildlife-damaged garden. His version highlights a familiar rectangular layout, stepped boxes and a carefully positioned gate.
A Stepped Layout on a Steep Slope
Chris B. in Atascadero, California adapted the same underlying design to demanding terrain. Tiered beds and transitions demonstrate the design flexibility when a level garden area is not available.
FROM HENRY’S TOOLBOX
Tools Used in the Videos and Henry’s Recommendations
I’m often asked which tools I used and what I would choose today. You do not need every tool below, or the exact same model to build this project. These are the ones I have used, prefer or would personally choose for this work, along with the practical reason behind each recommendation.
DEWALT 360° Green Laser Level
Why I use it: I use a green 360-degree laser because I can see it outdoors much better than a red beam. It makes leveling the beds and carrying elevations around a large enclosure faster and more consistent.
STABILA Three-Piece Level Set
Why I use it: I have used many levels over the years, and STABILA is the brand I trust most for accuracy and durability. The three sizes cover most of the work here, from checking a raised bed to plumbing a fence post.
DEWALT 12-inch Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Why I use it: The raised beds require many repeatable square cuts. I prefer a solid 12-inch corded saw for this production work because it has the capacity, accuracy and power to keep the parts consistent.
MAX SuperFramer Coil Nailer
Why I use it: I used BOSTITCH nailers for many years, but my preference now is MAX. I have found it consistent and dependable. A framing nailer is not essential, but it saves considerable time when assembling this many bed sections.
Makita 18V Drill and Impact Driver Kit
Why I use it: A drill and impact driver are used constantly on this project. I prefer this Makita combination because it is compact, dependable and, in my experience, the batteries run longer than comparable packs I have used.
Channellock Fence-Tool Pliers
Why I use it: This is a simple specialty tool that makes fence work easier. The smaller head gives you more room to drive staples without hitting your fingers, and the puller is useful when a staple needs to come back out.
Garden Enclosure FAQs
Direct answers based on the project design and Henry’s demonstrations.
Does this garden fence require post holes or concrete?
No. The fence posts attach to the perimeter raised beds and are stabilized with braces, so the main system does not depend on driven posts, concrete footings or buried 4×4s.
Can I change the size of the garden enclosure?
Yes. The design is modular: repeat or omit raised-bed sections to suit the available space, then adjust the plan layout and material quantities before building.
Can the enclosure be built on uneven or sloped ground?
Yes. Individual bed sections can step with the grade. Level ground is easier, but the customer project from Atascadero demonstrates how extensively the layout can adapt to a slope.
How does the design help keep out small animals?
The wide perimeter beds increase the distance an animal must tunnel. Chicken wire under the beds and a buried barrier at openings or bed-free sections add protection.
How tall is the garden fence?
Henry’s completed enclosure uses an approximately 7½-foot-high barrier. Confirm the wildlife pressure, local rules and any overhead electric-wire requirements for your own site.
What is included in the free garden enclosure plan?
The 24-page PDF includes design guidance, material information, ground preparation, bed layouts, post spacing, cap and rail details, bracing, gate construction and wildlife-deterrence notes.
Is any fence completely bear-proof?
No wildlife barrier should be treated as an absolute guarantee. This design combines a tall, well-braced enclosure with strong mesh and optional properly installed electric wires to discourage entry.
Where should I start the three-video series?
Start with Video 1 to understand the design and site decisions, continue to the raised-bed build, then complete the posts, rails, mesh and gate in Video 3.
Start with the Design Before Building the Beds
Video 1 explains how the raised beds, fence posts, braces, gate and wildlife barriers work together. Use it to confirm that the system fits your site before buying materials.
1 Comment
These plans are great. I don’t have that much room. Do you have instructions on how to down size this to about 8 x 10. I love your website. It’s amazing that you share all of this wonderful information Betty