SHED BUILDING VIDEO 5 OF 15
How to Frame Shed Walls, Door Openings and Headers
Learn how to frame shed walls step-by-step, including door openings, headers, and bracing techniques. Build any shed or outdoor project with ease.
Taught by Henry Reinders, a professional builder, renovator and woodworker with more than 45 years of hands-on experience.
Popular Video Chapters
Select a topic to jump directly to that part of the video.
0:04 Prepare the floor for wall framing
Prepare a clean, square shed floor and organize the wall-framing lumber before beginning the layout.
4:08 Lay out plates and studs at 16-inch centres
Learn how to mark top and bottom plates together for studs spaced 16 inches on centre.
8:58 Assemble the first side wall accurately
Henry shows how to assemble the first side wall while keeping plates, studs and corners aligned.
16:45 Raise, align and secure the side walls
Raise the side walls safely, align them with the floor edge and brace them before continuing.
20:21 Measure and build the back wall
Measure the space between side walls and build the back wall to fit the completed floor frame.
26:36 Frame the front wall and door header
Frame the front wall and construct a properly supported header for the exterior-door opening.
31:41 Square, brace and add optional window framing
Square and brace the wall assembly, then add optional window framing without weakening the layout.
38:36 Install top plates and finish the openings
Henry explains how to overlap the top plates and complete backing around wall and door openings.
BUILDING THIS SHED?
Free Shed Building Video Tutorials
Complete Plans When You’re Ready
Use the video tutorials to help build the shed. Use the plans for exact dimensions, drawings, material lists, construction sequence and the included Excel costing sheet.
Shed Wall-Framing Quick Reference
Wall framing with square corners, plumb walls and ready for installation of LP SmartSide panels.
Key specs at a glance
- Stud spacing: 16 inches on center (Recommended)
- Crown direction: every stud faces the same way – typically outward
- Door bottom plate: cut out after the wall is raised and secured, not before – easier to line up wall to edge of floor
- Temporary bracing: diagonal braces from floor to opposite upper corners
- Top plates: overlap at corners to tie walls together
Common mistakes to avoid
- Alternating stud crown direction, which shows up as a wavy wall
- Cutting the door’s bottom plate before the wall is raised and secured
- Skipping diagonal bracing after checking walls for plumb
- Not overlapping top plates at the corners
- Using 24-inch stud spacing under thinner panel material – fine for thicker materials
PROJECT RESOURCES
Need a Budget? Price the Project Before You Build
Download the free Excel costing sheet to enter current local prices, provided for both shed plan sizes and both old and recent Excel formats (just in case you need the older file format).
Frequently Asked Questions
Questions are based on the topics covered in this video and common questions Henry receives from customers via email.
Which direction should the stud crowns face?
Mark every stud crown and face them all the same direction. Alternating crowns can create a visibly wavy wall. Watch at 4:08
Why lay out studs at 16 inches on center?
The consistent spacing supports the wall panels and keeps panel joints aligned over framing. With 3/8″ thick panels, 24″ spacing can allow panels to appear wavy whereas 16″ usually results in a nice flat wall. Watch at 4:08
When should the door’s bottom plate be removed?
Assemble and raise the complete front wall first. After it is secured, cut out the bottom plate across the door opening. This ensures the top and bottom plates are aligned properly. Watch at 38:36
How are shed walls kept plumb before sheathing?
Use diagonal temporary braces running from the floor or bottom plate to the opposite upper corners, then adjust them while checking with a level. Watch at 16:45
Why overlap the upper top plates at the corners?
The overlap connects adjacent walls and strengthens the corners of the completed wall assembly. Watch at 38:36
Complete Video Transcript
Use the expandable transcript to read Henry’s instructions found in this video – with timestamps linked to each section in the video.
Open the complete video transcript
Welcome to countrylifep projects.com. I’m Henry Reinders. This is video five of 15 videos in our shed project. In this video, I’m going to be showing you how to do all the wall framing, including the door opening, header, and so on. If you like, you can print out the plans to follow along in this section. So, let’s get started on the wall framing. Before we start there, we’re going to be using a product called LP SmartSide Panels. That’s for the exterior finish on our shed. And to make it easy to put those in accurately later, we’re going to put blocking down here at 4 and 1/4 in down from the plywood. So,
we’re going to do that before we start our wall framing. It’s easier to measure now. And we’re going to snap lines from corner to corner with a chalk line. And we’re going to put the blocks every 4T roughly. Make sure that they’re supporting our panels when we put them up. So, I’ve already marked the floor off at center here for the face or the front of the shed. And then 4ft increments along the side of our shed. Okay. We’ve marked our distance down here at 4 and a/4. This is when we’re uh finished our wall framing. We’re putting on our smart side panels. This is the height that they’re going to start at from the ground here. So,
we’re going to snap lines with our chalk line from corner to corner. What that’s going to do is give us a very accurate straight line. So, our smart panels will be perfectly set up. We’re going to go all the way around and I’m going to show you how to put the blocks on and where to put them. Okay, we’re going to put the blocks on now. Pretty straightforward. Stay about 6 in back from the lines that you marked off where your smart panel is going to go. So, we’re 6 in from center here. About 6 in in from the corner here. Why that’s important is when we put our walls up, we’re going to be putting a block on here. So, you need to leave room for
the block to go on there or here. Depends where you want to put them. So, 6 in in from either end. Just go around the whole perimeter and just make sure that you’re right on the line and carry on all the way around. Once that’s done, we’re going to start our wall framing. Okay, we’re going to start with our sidewalls. We’ve already got the base plates cut or top and bottom plate, I should say. This one’s for that wall over there. These are for this wall over here. It’s important when you’re measuring your walls that you’re not measuring your plywood. You’re actually measuring the floor joist and the joist headers outside. So, for these walls,
measure outside down here. And for the back and the front, we’re actually going to measure those once we have these two walls in place. That’ll give us our most accurate measurements. The other thing we already have all our studs precut over here. Just want to show you something here. We will be looking for the crowns when we’re building our walls. I’m going to show you that later when we’re assembling. But just a little tip. When you’re at uh your lumber yard, you’re selecting your material and you’re stacking it on a dolly or cart, whatever they give you. When you’re stacking it, if everything’s starting to fit together nice and tightly like this,
it’s a good chance it’s a good easy way to keep monitoring that you’re buying straight material. If you see any kind of spacing in here, things like that, good chance there’s a warp piece of lumber in there. So, when you’re picking your lumber out, try and get as straight as possible. It’s going to make construction a lot easier. Next, we’re going to take our base plates, our base and top plate, and we’re going to mark them off. We’re going to be laying out our top and bottom plates for our sidewalls. Uh, one of the most important things for these is that they’re very, very straight. This determines how straight your
wall will be. Uh, if they’re curved and you’re putting your wall up, you’re going to have to start doing some adjustments. Makes it a little bit more difficult. So, these two pieces here and the other two that we have for the other wall are very straight. There’s actually no crown in these, so we don’t have to worry about marking off the crown. And we’re going to be doing these on 16in centers. And we’re going to start from the front of the shed to the back of the shed. So start over here. And in previous videos, I had pointed out that a framing tape measure has 16in centers marked in red. And we always go to 16. We always go 3/4 of an inch back. Put an X on this side
here. You keep doing that all the way through. That will make sure that your studs are centered. And then later we’ll come back with the triangular square and transfer our line to the other 2×4. And doesn’t hurt to double check these. Make sure they’re accurate. Go back here. Make sure you put an X on the other one. And you carry on all the way through with each one. Now on 2x4s, it’s not necessary to take this line and transfer it down here. Most of the time, you can eye that up pretty good. If you are concerned though, then just same thing we did with our 2 by sixes earlier when we were doing the floor. You just put the line on there, mark your X there, and
do that for every mark you have. But like I say, it’s not really necessary. It’s pretty easy to eye these up when you’re screwing them together. We’re going to do the other top and bottom plate, and then we’re going to get ready to assemble. Okay, we have everything ready to assemble. Uh, I want to point out that we’ve already marked the crowns on all our studs. And what that is, and I’ve shown this in previous videos, but I’ll just show it one more time. Most wood isn’t perfectly straight. It’s usually going to have a little bit of a bow. You want to make sure all your studs that the bow
is on the same side. And the reason for that, if you have a bow going this way and the next piece is going that way and you put on your SmartSide panels, you’re going to get a wow in the panel and that’s going to be harder to secure the panel to the uh studs. So, it’s important that you get that right. And also, our design allows for correct positioning of our SmartSide panel, but it also fits on the floor for assembly perfectly. We have about a/ an inch to spare. So, makes it very easy for assembly. So, we’re going to start screwing this together. You start with our end stud.
We are uh by the way, we’re all we’re using regular construction screws. They’re not coated and they’re 3 in. And on the end here, just flush it up. Your screw should be about 3/4 of an inch down from the top. 3/4 inch up from the bottom. Make sure it’s flush. And then we’re going to carry through. Line up the top of the stud. Once you have that done, before you screw the bottom one in, let’s get it started. Just look down. square it up and finish it off. Do the same thing with all your studs as you go through. We’re going to go through. We’re going to finish these off. We’re going to put this wall to the
side. We’re going to build the next wall for the other side. And then we’re going to tilt them up. I’ll show you how to do that after we get these done. I’m going to finish this off now. Nice. Go die. Okay, we finished assembling our walls, two sidewalls. Uh, next we’re going to tilt this wall here up. But before we do that, especially if you’re working on your own, you don’t have help, you want to have little uh tools or jigs to uh make sure that uh everything is lined up. So, what we’re going to be doing is we’re going to be screwing these blocks onto the joist underneath. We tilt the wall up. We just have to push them tight to this. And we know that we’re
lined up with the joist header down below. Also, we’re going to be working down at that end. So, we’re going to put one here. So, we just have to give it a tap and it’ll be lined up with the front of our shed. When we tilt it up, I have a 2×4 screwed to the floor joist. Once I get this tilted up, then I can just screw this into the uh wall to hold it temporarily in place. We’ll do the other wall after that. But I’ll get these blocks screwed on and then we’ll tilt the wall up. Okay, we’re going to tilt this up. Let’s go down to this end over here.
Just tap it against both of these blocks. You’ll be guaranteed to be 100% lined up. Come down to this end. Just tap that. Now, I do have a adjustable clamp here that you can use onehanded. We’re going to use that temporarily. Bring this up. Oh. clamp it in place. Then we can go ahead and level this wall out. It doesn’t have to be perfect because we’re going to do more adjustments later. And we are actually pretty good. So, what I can do now, go ahead and screw this in because the clamp isn’t good enough on its own. We take that off. We’re going to use that on the other wall.
Okay, we’re going to bring that wall over and then we’ll show you that one. Okay, we brought the other wall back into uh place here. I’m going to bring my brace up same way I did before on the back side. We’re going to get it approximately level. That’s pretty good right there. We’re just going to clamp it same same way we did the last one. And then we’re going to screw that on. Okay, that’s done. Now, we’re going to screw the walls to the floor. So, just make sure they’re solidly in place. Now, one thing I want to show you is we’re going to do the ends, but we’re not going to screw the middle
of the wall yet. Because when we put the floor in here and we’re assembling that, if we were to screw the middle of the walls here, it may be too tight and make it very difficult to pull the wall up when we’re tilting it up. So, we’re going to do those after the other walls are tilted up. So, let’s put a screw in either end. It’s also a good idea to make sure when you’re screwing through that you’re going through the plywood and into the joist underneath. Okay, those are in place. That’s more than sturdy enough for now. They’re not going to go anywhere. Of course, before we’re completely done, if we were to leave this overnight, for example,
we’d want to brace it up a little bit more, but we’re going to continue on here. So, next wall, we’re going to do the back wall, and then we’ll go from there. Okay. And now that we have our two sidewalls in place and we have them secured on the ends here, we can take a measurement for our top and bottom plate for our end wall, which we have 86. We’re going to lay this one out a little bit differently than we did our sidewalls. And that’s because our width overall of our shed is 7’9 in. And we want our SmartSide smart panels to be centered so the joint on the panels is perfectly centered on the peak of the shed when we’re done. So, we’re going
to lay that out now. I’ll show you how to do that. Okay, we’re going to lay out the back wall. Now, uh as I noted earlier, we do have to start from the center, not from one end. And that’s to make sure that when we install our Smart Side panels that they’re actually going to be perfectly center of the shed and with the peak of the roof. So, what we’re going to do, we’re going to take our measurement, which is 86. We’re going to go to center, which is 43. And then we’ll just mark that out as center right now. We want to go 3/4ers of an inch back and mark that
off. So now what we’re going to do from there. So we’re going to go from the center mark. We’re going to go 16. Go back 3/4. Put our X there. We’re going to go 32 back 3/4. Put our X there. We’re going to do the same thing going the other way. Again, remember we’re going from center. 16 less 3/4 put our X and 32 less 3/4 put our X. We’re going to take our triangular square, transfer that line to both top and bottom plate. do this side here. And that’s it. That is our top and bottom plate ready for assembly for the back wall of the shed. Okay, we have all our parts cut for the end wall here. Uh all our crowns are up. It’s very
important this is ready to go. We also have our blocking in place for when we tilt the wall up, which we’ll be doing shortly. And I’m going to screw this together. It’s exactly the same process as what I showed you for the side walls. So, I’m going to go ahead and do that and then we’ll get back here and tilt the wall up. Okay, we’ve finished assembling our wall for the back. We’re going to tilt it up and then we’re going to be screwing it to our sidewalls. We already have our blocks in place, line it up with the uh end joist. So, we’ll do that now. As you can see, one person can easily do this.
Just tap it tight into the corners. As you can see, we got nice tight joints here. There should be enough tension there to keep it from going anywhere, but just keep an eye on it. We’re going to screw down the floor in the corners first. or the bottom plate I should say to the floor. Just make sure it’s tight against that block. That is our alignment to the joist on the outside. Do the same thing over here. Reason you want to do the bottom plate to the floor first is to make sure it’s all pulled down before you screw this way. Next thing we’re going to do, as high as you can reach for starters, just screw this stud into the end stud on your sidewall.
This wall ain’t going anywhere now. Do the same thing on this side over here and we’ll do final alignment later. Roll it. Okay. We’re going to start framing the front wall next. Uh but before we do that, I have the door here that we’re going to be using in that wall. I’m going to show you how to calculate your rough opening. This door here is 37 and a half wide. And you want to measure near the top, not here, because this could be twisted or, you know, out a little bit. So, you want to be near the top where the measurements accurate. We got 37 12. I like to use 3/4 of an inch total. That’s
that’ll give you 38ighs of an inch play room on either side to put your shims in later. And as for the height, you want to measure right from the bottom of the jam up to the top. On this door, we have 81 12. I like to have at least a/2 inch space above the door. That just allows for settling of the uh framing. Uh in this case, we’re going to have 3/4 of an inch. And when we start framing the front wall of the shed, I’ll show you why. But basically allow 3/4 extra on your width and a/ inch to 3/4 on your height. Okay, we’re going to be doing the front wall of the shed. I’ve already
laid this one out. I am putting a header above the door in the center of this wall. We don’t really need it with the design of the trusses we have, but I wanted to do it so that if you want to put a door on the sidewall of your shed, you can do it. And you’re going to need a header if you do that. So, what we’ve done, just like the back wall, we’ve marked off our center. And then from there, we’ve measured out for our rough opening that we require. And right here is 19 and an eighth. Combined, we have a total of 38 and 1/4, which is 3/4 of an inch wider than our door frame. Now,
you’ll notice on here I have a T and an X. T is for what we call trimmer. The X is a king stud or the main stud. Now, this trimmer will go underneath the header once we have the header in place. So, your actual header size is to the king stud or the uh primary stud here. And you so you would take your measurement from here to the outside of the trimmer on this side, which is 41 and 1/4. So, our header is going to be 41 and 1/4. We’re going to be using a 2×8 because it actually works out to the perfect height. top plate and then we have the header and
then a plate underneath the header leaves us with 82 and a quarter inches which is threequarters of an inch clearance above our door which is perfect. So we’ve already got this laid out. The only other thing to keep in mind is that we still do use 16in centers even though in this area you won’t need it. We will have it over here. And if you measure from center here to here we’re at 32 in on center. That’s important for when we use our SmartSide panel. We want to be able to nail right on one of the grooves, which we’ll show you later. That’s about it. We’re going to get this set up and assembled, laid out, and then assembled. But we’ll show you the assembly. Okay,
we’ve got our header pieces cut. It’s a 2×8, two 2x8s put together. Uh we’re using 3-in screws. I just want to show you what you need to do when you’re putting these together so the screws don’t protrude. It’s very simple. You just take it, put it on a good angle like that, screw it in, and just double check. Yep, that’s good. And make sure the ends stay flush cuz on an angle they can pull a little bit, but these ones don’t. So, we’re going to do same thing in the middle. Make sure this is flush. Same thing on the end. Make sure it’s flush. And then we’re going to do three on each one. If you were doing this for a home,
you would use a construction adhesive between the layers, but we’re doing this for a shed, so we’re not going to do that. And that’s it. Our header is ready to be installed into our wall. Okay, we’re ready to assemble the uh end wall for the front of the shed. We’re going to be putting the header in plate underneath the header and we’re going to show you the process and the order you should do this. First thing we’re going to do is we’re going to put this plate on the bottom of our header. Makes it easier to install. We do that. You want that to be flush with the front, flush with the end here.
You don’t want the header protruding past this piece. That’s good enough for now. We’ll add a couple more screws later. Going to drop this in place. We’re going to screw our primary stud in first. Get that lined up. Do that on both sides of the header. And we don’t want to put this stud in until this is completely finished because we need the room to be able to screw through the side. Next, we’re going to line the header up with the top plate. Make sure that’s flush, that it’s not sticking past. Now, we’re going to take a quick break here because I prefer to cut my trimmer studs after the header is in place. That way, I get a very accurate,
tight fit here. So, I’m going to measure that, cut them, and then we’ll be right back. Also, if you want, you can put these in after the wall is up. That’s your choice. Next, we’re going to finish off getting these screwed on, and then I’ll show you another feature that we used on the bottom of this wall. Okay, that’s the top screwed off. Now, I’m going to show you something on the bottom of the wall here. Once we lift this wall up, we’re going to want to cut this plate here out. Now, we don’t want to have any saw blade marks on our finished floor here. So, what we’ve done
is we’ve undercut here on both sides about halfway through the wood so that when we do cut from the top later, we don’t have to go right down to the floor. It’ll just pop right out of there. So, that’s a good thing to do if you’re going to be doing that. By only going halfway through, you retain all your measurements and your layout. So, you can do that if you like. We’ll get this finished up here and then we’ll tilt the wall up. Okay, we’re done screwing it in. We’re going to be tilting the wall up next and securing it to the exterior walls. Okay, we’re ready to tilt this wall up. As you’ll see in the bottom corners here,
we already have our blocking in place so that it’ll be lined up properly. Let’s get this lifted up. Can be a little bit tricky to get your fingers under there. Okay. Okay. You don’t want to let go of this while you’re getting it in position, but we’re going to do the two bottom corners first. And we’re tight to our block at the bottom. We’ll go to the other corner. Do the same thing. Okay, it worked good there. Now, we’re going to connect to the side wall. Again, remember that you want to keep your plates at the top flush. We’re good there. We’ll go over here. Do the same thing. Get as high as you can.
And we’re flush at the top. We’ll get these flushed up in a moment. On this wall here, we can go ahead and screw down along the front here. Of course, not where the door is. I just get my square. Okay. Just going to make sure I’m flush, which I am. And note that we are directly above this joist. We’re screwing it down. Go over to this end. Do the same thing. We’re flush here. Yeah, I’m going to finish screwing that off. Screwing this here off. Once I have that done, I want to show you something else here with this opening. But, uh, how to do a window. Even though we’re not doing one on this shed, I can show you how to do it. Okay. Now, we’re going to show you
how to frame a window. Uh, right now, this is our door opening, but if you decide you want to put a window, say if you want to move this to this side, put a window over here. Or, especially if you’re putting a window on the side where your truss is and the weight, the bearing wall is going to be, this is how you do it. We already have the header in here. We’re going to pretend that we’re putting a window in that has a 30 and 3/4 in rough opening. So, what you would do is you’d have a sail plate here and then you’d have a [ __ ] stud here that would support the sill plate and then
you would fill in just as you would if you were framing or a wall. You go your 16in centers and you would carry them through underneath the sill plate here. So, for example, this would be your [ __ ] which we’re showing here. That stud there would be the 16in center. This is your center of your wall here, which is also 16 in. This would be your next 16 in center stud and your [ __ ] And those would be on there. And that’s about it. That’s all you have to do to frame in for a wall. So, you would do the door opening the same way and then finish off like that.
Okay. Okay, we’re going to start bracing from the inside of the shed right now to make sure it’s square and level. Uh we have our temporary bracing on the outside. Of course, that’s going to have to come off because we’re going to have to put our smart panels on after. And so inside we’re using 10ft 2×4. It will basically start from the ground up to the top of the walls. But uh if you don’t have anybody to help you to do this, it can be a little bit difficult. So there is a a way to do that. Ideally, if you can get help, that’s the best. I’m going to show
you outside here. What to do, one over here. What you do is you go around to your corners, whichever one you’re going to be bracing first, check to see which way it’s got to go. This wall has got to go this way a little bit. So, if I’m working on my own, I would have to try and predict how much that’s got to go over. And then I would take my brace and I would screw it in what I think it is. come back and check it. I may have to adjust that. If you have somebody helping you, you would screw your brace in on the floor and you get up to the top of the wall. Have that person
push the the wall the way you want it to go, holding the level here until it’s right, and then you would screw it in. We’re going to pretend that I have nobody here to help me. And we’re going to do it the way I mentioned first. So, right now, I think I got to go about 38ighs of an inch that way. And we’re going to try that. Come back and check it. Okay. To start bracing, if you’re working on your own, you need this piece up here. I just put a screw here to hold it so that I can leave it while I’m screwing in near the floor. You take a look down here. Your brace has to be right
down at the floor here so that there’s no chance for it to move. So, we’ll screw this one in first and then we’re going to go up top. Like I said before, I figured I have to move the wall 38 of an inch that way. Working on my own, that’s how I’m going to have to do it. Like I say, if you have somebody to help you, you can just get them to push it over with the level on the wall. So, I’m just going to push this over. Now, I’m going to go double check it. You also notice my brace is right near the top of the wall here. If I was to screw it in around here, there would be flex in the
stud and it wouldn’t stay accurate up here. Can’t move. So, let’s go see if it’s level. And that’s level. So, you can do that for each wall. We’re going to go through. I’m just going to put a couple more screws in that one. I like to put one somewhere around the middle. Stiffen it up a little bit. Next, we’re going to go to that corner and go that way. Ideally, you want to have a brace going from there out of a corner. And then the same way on the other wall and the same on the opposite corner of the shed. We’re going to put a uh screw down there. And then
we’re going to check that wall for level. see what adjustments we have to make. I have to go outside and check it. And shows that we got to go that way just a hair. Not much at all. Now, we do have this brace here. And if we have to come this way, there’s not enough play. We may have to take that one off to to make that happen. So, right now, I’m just going to try pulling it over a little bit. See if it’ll come without having to take that brace off. Oh yeah, it moved. I’ll go down, check it again. Hopefully, we’re good. Okay, we’re just double- checking now that we’ve screwed that brace in place and it is bang
on. It’s perfectly level. So, that’s the back wall, the other wall. Those are braced and they’re good to go. Now, we’re going to do this wall and the front wall. Okay, now we finished all our wall framing bracing. Everything’s square and level. Final part of doing your walls is to put on the uh double top plate. Serves two purposes. One, it binds or locks this corner together cuz we overlap this wall from this wall here. We’ll be screwing down through here and then from here and here. And also, it helps to distribute the weight mainly on the sidewalls when your trusses are on here. gives it a nice solid thickness to
sit on. So, we’re going to get those done. Pretty straightforward. Just screw them down. Make sure they’re really straight because these do affect the straightness of your walls, just like the top and bottom plate of your walls. And we’ll just get her done. Flush them up this way, too. This way. Another point when you’re screwing down the top plate, put a couple in the end, couple here, and then when you’re doing the rest of them, stagger them. Put one on this side and one on the outside, one on the inside. About every 12 to 16 in is more than enough. When you stagger them, it helps make sure it stays flat.
We’ve got the top plates on. Everything’s screwed down. We got a couple of small things to finish up in the shed on the base of the walls. We got to finish screwing those off and lining them up. And we’re going to cut out the bottom plate on the door. And that just about wraps everything up for today. Okay, before we wrap up with our wall framing, there’s just a couple more things I wanted to show you. Uh, one is down here earlier, we’re doing our layout. We did an undercut here that I talked about. The reason for that is on this floor here, we’re not putting any covering down. If this was a house,
you wouldn’t worry about that because you’d be have floor covering covering everything. But we don’t want to scratch up the floor in here. So, we’re just going to drop a piece of plywood there. Because it’s undercut, we don’t have to cut all the way through. We’re just going to cut it out. That the other side. And that takes care of our bottom plate on our door. A couple more things I want to go over. We’ll do that next. Another thing, if you’re going to be finishing the inside of your shed, you want some backing in your corners. At this end of the shed, the back end of the shed, we have this stud here and this stud here. So, we’re fine there. But at the front over here,
we don’t have any backing. So, you can use up any small pieces that you have left over from doing your rafters or any other part of the job. and just take them. And I’ve already pre-cut all these. Doesn’t have to be a full piece. You can use a full piece, but you don’t have to. Screw them on here nice and tight. Make sure you use enough screws. If these loose or if these are loose or if they’re not really tight, it’s a bit of a pain when you start doing your interior finish. So, we’re going to do this corner and we’re going to do that corner. sure the other two
corners are fine. And then there’s just a couple more things that I want to show you after that. Okay, for the door framing, just another little point thing I want to point out is we put a header on this door here. Like I said before, you don’t really need it, but just because you don’t have a header doesn’t mean you want don’t want to double up on your 2x4s here. This gives your door a much more solid feel. The other thing you might want to take in consideration, if you live in an area where you’re concerned about theft or somebody breaking into your shed, you can put blocking in here from here all the way to the corner. What that’ll do is if somebody
tries to open or pry open your door, prevents this from moving. So, it actually provides a little bit more security. So, you can do that if you’re concerned about that. If you’re in a relatively safe neighborhood, then shouldn’t have to worry about it. Sometimes during construction, you’ll see inside a house or a garage or even in a shed like this that you’ll see bracing going across the shed. But here, because we picked out very straight top and bottom plates, our walls are straight. The only time you have that kind of bracing is if you have to pull the wall or push the wall out. We don’t have to do that. We have already checked. So,
that’s why we don’t have that in this particular video and we won’t need it. We just have our bracing here just to keep everything square till we get our SmartSide panels on.
Continue the Shed-Building Series
Follow the lessons in sequence so each completed stage is ready for the work that follows.