How To Build a Shed – Overview of Videos

This is quick video that covers most of what you can expect to find and learn in our 15 shed video series.

As you will see in this video, Henry will be covering a lot of detail and provide instruction in a step-by-step process to ensure you can build your shed and end up with results just like you will see in each of the videos.

8 Comments

  1. Samuel Snelson on

    I am using your plans, with a few modifications. I will be using Hardy Plank lapped siding so the shed will match my house. I will be sheathing the walls with 7/16 OSB. My question, when framing the walls, would it be more advantageous applying the sheeting before standing the walls. I have read that some like this method since it stiffens the walls and maintains square. Just wondering if you have ever done it this way and your thoughts.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Samuel

      There should be no reason you can’t do this except that it won’t allow you to work on the soffits as shown in our videos. If you do, be sure to keep the plywood down from the top plate to allow for truss width or make your trusses 7/8″ wider (which means making the allowance on the floor when building them). You will also need to make sure you extend the plywood on the left and right of the front and back walls for overlap onto the side walls (3 1/2 for framed side walls and 3/8″ for the OSB on those walls). You will also need to extend the OSB down on the bottoms on all walls as per your requirements (how much of the floor joist you want to cover).

      As far as stiffening the walls and maintaining square? If you plumb and brace the walls properly, shouldn’t make any diiference either way. Stiffer? Can’t see any difference here either, once sheathing is secured to the wall, whether on the floor (prefab) or afterwards, it is secured the same way with the same fastners.

      I have done it a variety of ways. Sheathed first, you may need an extra set of hands as the walls will be heavier. You will also have to account for windy days as the OSB provides a solid wall vs open framed. One benefit of applying the sheathing afterwards is the ease of entry in and out of the shed as you progress through the stages of construction (as per our videos that is) on a large project, like a house or garage, this is less critical with more door openings to enter and exit).

      Hope that helps

      • Samuel Snelson on

        Henry,

        I really appreciate the feedback. Doesn’t look like I gain much by sheathing before standing the walls. And since I will be doing this myself, the added weight might be somewhat of a problem.

        Regarding the soffit detail, I like the way you did this in your build. But I wanted to keep the shed architecturally the same as my house for obvious reasons. The roof on my house was done with conventional cut-framing with blocking between rafters/ceiling joist above the top plates. The eaves were left open (rafters exposed) and “finished” by laying tongue and groove starter boards as roof sheathing up to the blocking, then picking up with OSB. Other than making the roof sheathing process somewhat more complicated, do you see any other problems doing it this way?

        Again, thanks for entertaining my rather novice questions.

        • Henry Reinders on

          Hi Samuel

          Nothing novice about your questions, they are practical and the discussion might help other readers viewing the comments.

          I can’t think of any reason not to match the style and way that the soffits were done on your home. In fact, it seems like an interesting way of doing this… haven’t seen it done like that before. The only considerations I would take into account is to match the thickness of these t&g boards to the sheathing. You will also have to adjust measurements in regards to rafter lengths, ladder construction and some finish details.

          I assume the top side of the T&G is butt joints with no v-groove – better for roofing if this side is flat and tight. Sounds like you are planning some good details, if finishing the inside you may want to consider vents on the gable ends of the shed as this method may make soffit vents on the sides less attractive – just a thought, as I say, have not seen this type of soffit detail in my area, or nearby travels.

          Would be great if you could submit your shed on our website when you’re done, especially some pics of the soffit detail… sounds like it will be an interesting build.

          • Samuel Snelson on

            Henry,
            Thanks again for your thoughts. I was thinking the same about matching the thickness of the T&G boards to the sheathing. I have a thickness planer, so that wouldn’t be a problem, and if necessary,I could even mill my own T&G boards. More time consuming, but could be done. I will be more than happy to post pictures when I get to that point. but meanwhile, I was fortunate to find this link complete with pictures of the technique, just FYI. The old saying a picture is worth a thousand words.

            https://backoftheboard.com/2014/04/17/plotz-tanner-construction-company/

          • Henry Reinders on

            Thanks Samuel

            Very interesting technique for finishing soffit overhang. One thing for sure, your framing has to be nice and accurate as none of it gets hidden. Looking forward to seeing your finished shed on our site. Be sure to include photos of the soffits.

  2. Hi, I really appreciate your videos, I am constructing a shed (12×20) and will be using some of your techniques.

    My question is, what size screws did you use in the construction and where did you find the robertson screws in bulk? I assume you got them at Lowes, but my Lowes here in California does not carry those flat head countersinking type.

    I plan on using nails and screws. Thank you so much again, you should create more shed plans and market them because the one you made for this shed is the best I have ever seen and I searched books, magazines and the web. Might be lucrative.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Anthony,

      Glad you like the videos and thank you,

      As far as screws go, we got them at Rona (but I think they are just in Canada). If you are having trouble getting them, you might be better off to use the star socket (not sure what the exact name is) available at home depot. Home Depot in Canada also carries the Roberston, but I am not sure about the USA.

      If it becomes a real problem, stick to nails for the framing and panels and just use screws on the plywood sections.

      All the best,
      Henry

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