Complete Index of Shed Videos

We have 16 videos in our shed building series (includes the overview video) – all full videos are free to watch!

 

 

30 Comments

  1. Hi Henry, my door is 3/4 bigger then yours.. and using 2×8 won’t work with proper clearance. Can I use 2- 2x4s and bracing in between for my header, instead of 2×8 or 2×6 using the same door location as your shed?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Sarah

      If you are putting the door on the front or back (gable ends) of the shed you do not need to worry about a header. We only included the header on the front to show viewers how to frame a header should they decide to put the door on the side walls (these are the bearing walls – the ones the truss ends rest on). The front is not a bearing wall.

      If you are putting the door on a side wall (bearing), you should use a double 2×6 header if you can. A double 2×4 (on edge) may be okay but only if you do not get much snow (or none) in the winter. Do note that a 2×4 header would not be to code.

      Hope that helps
      Henry

  2. Hi Henry;

    Soffit questions:

    Following the plans I’ve got the decking and trusses done and I’m about to place the “big order” for the rest of the materials.

    I was wondering if you have a suggestion for a cheaper and simpler soffit solution than than the T&G you used. Also, I’m assuming we want sealed soffits so should I make a small gable vent on each end? Do we need a bit of venting?
    Based on the plans I’m assuming an 11″ soffit depth. Perhaps use 1/2: ply primed and painted?

    Thank you

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Mike,

      Your idea of using 1/2″ plywood, primed and painted will work fine. Venting is a good idea (in hindsight, I feel I should of added a video on this) and putting these on the gable ends will work well. Best of success with your shed!

  3. Hi Henry,
    Great videos. With your shed plans, can I put the door on the long side? Will the door clear the rafter overhang? The way my property
    sits it would be more practical. Thanks.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Art,

      Putting the door on the side wall is not a problem as long as you use the header as shown for the front of the shed (same applies to windows) – the side walls are actually the bearing walls. We installed the door to swing in so clearance was not an issue. That said, as long as you are using a standard entrance door you should not have a problem with clearance if opening out. If building a custom door, keep it under 84″. In addition, after installing the trusses, use a level from the bottom of the header (or estimated door height) to see where the door will swing out in relation to the rafters (soffit overhang)… if the rafters appear to interfere with the door, you can cut them back a few inches to provide additional clearance (although I do not think it will be an issue as I checked the plans and it looks fine).

      Best regards,
      Henry

  4. I just recently finish with a two-car carport framing huge project. Now moving onto the roof decking. When I started with the first 4’x8′ sheet of 7/16″ OSB it was not squared and was really way off. Is may framing really way off which it can’t be. How do I fix this before I start with my roof decking? Need your advice really badly!

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Larry,

      That is a tough one to answer without being able to see the project. However, I would first check to make sure your framing below is square, level and plumb all around (a wall not plumb below could put your roofing out of square especially if that is the end you started your roof framing from). The second thing to check is to make sure all your rafter overhangs are the same length (soffit) – if applicable. Also check to make sure your rafters are squared to the main frame below and that they are “All” equally spaced and none are nailed on the wrong side of a layout mark or similar error. Other than that, hard to say why it is out.

      Hope that helps,
      Henry

  5. Hi Henry.

    Did you have to do anything to protect the cut edges of the smart board? Any caulking on the edges of the boards where they meet on the corners? Thank you in advance.

    • Henry Reinders on

      On the corners, the panel edges are covered by the 1×4 trim. where panels join does not require anything (they should have a painted edge – if not, you can paint these before putting up the panels). After installation of the panels we put on 2 coats of paint – any areas that appeared to have any spaces or where we felt needed protection from rain and damp was caulked with a latex caulk prior to painting.

  6. Why do you put the Smartside panels on the end walls before installing the soffit ladders? Couldn’t you install the soffit ladders first and then butt the Smartside panels up to the ladders?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Tom,

      You could do this but then you would have to add more backing in the gable trusses to nail the panels on. In addition, if you do them after, your cuts will need to be much more precise, doing them before, your angle and cutting can be a little out and it is never seen.

Leave A Reply

WordPress Anti-Spam by WP-SpamShield