Complete Index of Shed Videos

We have 16 videos in our shed building series (includes the overview video) – all full videos are free to watch!

 

 

34 Comments

  1. I need a strong shed at my lakefront property. Highest recorded wind was 160kph Plow Wind. 80kph is not uncommon. I plan to bring 200 amp power to the shed to feed my trailer & other buildings. Looks like your plan is solid so I’m buying it. I need to raise it 2 feet off the ground to keep it out of flood risk. It would be best if not skirted as this keeps snow from burying it if the wind can go under. Raising my yard 2 feet in that area is not really an option. We get 4 to 12 foot snow drifts. Any further recommendations.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Ouch, sounds like some pretty harsh weather! And yes I do have some recommendations…

      First, it sounds like you need more structural integrity than what the LP Smart Panels will provide on their own. I would use 3/8″ or 7/16″ sheathing first and a layer of tar paper or Tyvek house wrap under the LP Panels – especially with an elevated shed. I would also consider going 2×6 for the trusses and 1/2″ gussets and glue for sure. For the framing, consider nails for the increased shear strength (wind has amazing destructive power).

      Lots of snow? If humid too, consider gable venting to make sure moisture in the shed is not an issue. These can be centered in the peak area of the gable trusses (both ends) and 8″ x 8″ should be fine. You can cut the center vertical 2×4 in the gable trusses after the panels are done and the glue is dry – this is the 2×4 on its flat that is simply backing for the LP Smart Panel – it is not structural. Don’t forget hurricane ties – critical for the trusses.

      Other than that, just use glue as shown in the videos and I think you will be fine.

      All the best and success with your shed,
      Henry

  2. I have a question about trusses , I planed to build trusses using a bird mouth technique they also dont have that center support like yours do, So yours look more like a triangle where mine would look more like an upside down V. I am building a 12×16 shed. I though to put some support higher up so it would look like an A . which ones are better ?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Rodney,

      Sorry for the late reply, been very busy at work lately.

      For a 12 x 16 shed I would recommend prefab trusses made to your specs. They are not expensive. Here locally at the building store, you can pickup 10′ scissor trusses for sheds at $30 each. I would think 12′ would not be much more and you will know they are engineered for your climate/area.

      As far as what is better? That is a tough questions since I am not an engineer. What I do like about the truss design I used is the fact that all 3 points are connected where the strength is needed most (or stress points). The peak and then at the outside points where the bottom chords connect to the rafters (the point where the stress is pulling outward). I cannot say this is best, but it makes sense to me. The larger the span of course, the more careful you have to be.

      Hope that helps.

  3. Hi Henry:….thank you very much for this comprehensive and easy-follow series on shed building. I have built two very nice cedar sheds in the last forty years, but your videos have shown me many “tricks” I wish I had known as I built them. Professional guidance like yours is hard to come by.
    Now with another new home, its time to built another shed….and I need it to be 8 x 12, I would guess the same values of economy exist by building it 7 foot 9 by 11 foot 9. Is there any advice that you might have regarding a longer shed?

    Thanks, John

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi John,

      Longer is not a concern in regards to trusses and roof. The only thing to watch is if put doors or windows on the long walls – then make sure you use proper headers and if your door opens out, make sure it will not hit your fascia board/rafter overhang.

      Success on your shed!

  4. Thanks for these great instructional videos! Definitely the most comprehensive I have seen online and very well explained throughout. I am using them as a reference for building a playhouse. A question I have is regarding the roof trusses. Yours are all 30degree and 60degree cuts. If I wanted a steeper pitch at 12/12 should all the angles cuts be at 45 degrees? Thats what I think but wanted to make sure. Thanks again.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Jesse

      Glad you like the videos… yes, you would be correct, the cuts would then be 45 degrees.

  5. Your videos were very helpful allowing me to complete my cabin at the cottage. I was wondering if you have any videos on installing board and batten

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Mark,

      Not at the moment, no projects planned that would include this method of siding. However, in the near future, hopefully early spring 2015 we are planning to buy a homestead property and will be doing videos on everything from gardening to building a home, possibly two. There will be everything from conventional construction to proper log home work.

      Cheers,
      Henry

  6. Do you install a window similar to the way you did the door, like leaving a 3/8″ gap all round and using shims on both sides.

    BTW great vids nice and clear 🙂

    Regards

    John

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi John

      Yes and no, you do leave a 3/8″ space all around, but you only shim the bottom level, if your framing is level, then just use equal spacers under the bottom. the sides and top remain clear, you then nail the flange on the outside and make sure your window is centered in the space, the space at the top allows for settling. If using a replacement window without a flange, then yes, shim the sides, but not the top – and you would shim where the screws go into your framing.

      Hope than helps.

  7. Tom Phillips on

    When I decided to build my shed, I looked all over the internet and YouTube. There are lots of helpful videos people put together on building sheds. But your 15 part video was the most comprehensive, most detailed, and most clearly articulated of all of them. I am making your videos my reference as I design and build my shed – a first time ever project.

    Before I ran across your videos I managed to build a foundation of two by sixes on cement blocks that have groves for them. If I had seen your video before I did my foundation It would have saved me some real problems. Now, the expertise you showed and the attention to detail has caused me to decide to undo part of it and make it right. Before your video I was going to “live” with the small descepancies that would have been a real headache later in the project to fix.

    My shed has some challenges. I won’t go into them. But it will be 7 ft 6 in by 8 ft in order to fit next to my house. Your video has given me some ideas to make this work.

    Thank you !!!!

  8. I have used your videos to help me in constructing my shed. I can’t tell you how much I have appreciated them! If I’m unsure of something I just go back and watch that portion again. Your directions are clear & understandable. Thank you!

  9. Looks very good! but I would be more interested in a 10′ x 12′ or a 10′ x 16′, with a sloped roof.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Ronald

      Sorry, don’t have that yet. I make the plans manually so each one is a bit of work to do. The 8×10 was most common which is why we went with that size. Not sure if and when I would get to a set of plans for 10′ x 12′ shed.

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