Complete Index of Shed Videos

We have 16 videos in our shed building series (includes the overview video) – all full videos are free to watch!




  1. Hello Henry,
    I would like to start by saying that the videos are very helpful.
    I am in the process of building one.
    I saw that when you put up the sheathing for the roof the soffit weren’t done.
    You then put up the cedar plank and 1by 2 strip
    So do you put up another layer of sheathing or extend the original to cover this extra addition?
    Thanking you in advance,

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Paul

      Since a lot of sheds do not have gutters and you see the area along the fascia boards I did not want the edge of the plywood sheathing visible. So in regards to your question, the cedar trim/fascia is applied and then the roofing is applied over this. When done you have a very nicely finished roof and fascia boards with no rough plywood etc showing anywhere. This makes for a much better finish. Alternatively, if you use edge flashing instead of the 1×2 it would not matter as the flashing would hide the plywood edge.

      I use this method on garages and houses too. However, it is a little more work as gutters are used and the fascia board needs to be plumb… for this, I angle the top edge of sub-fascia and the fascia boards to match the slope of the roof – on gable ends, I keep the fascia boards flush to the top side of the sheathing. This really makes for a much nicer finish on buildings – IMO. It is more old school and much depends on the types of materials used. For example, PVC, metal etc may not work as well subject to the recommended installation for each type. But for all wood construction, I prefer to not see the sheathing.

      How that would work is you cut rafter ends plumb, then you use a sub-fascia and cut the top edge to match the slope of the roof (bottom edge too if you like but requires wider lumber to match the height of the cut rafter end). You can then apply the sheathing and bring the bottom edge flush to the front face of the sub fascia. With the finished fascia, you cut only the top edge to match the roof slope and this is applied flush to the top of the sheathing. The bottom edge of the fascia board is square and protrudes past the sub-fascia (usually 1 1/4″ to 1 1/2″) enough to hide the edges of whatever finished soffit material one plans to use which is typically 3/4″ to 1″. Done this way, the roof surface is flat without voids or spaces from the peak/ridge right to the front edge of the fascia boards.

      Also, on Houses, the typical method for rafter ends and sub-fascia leaves spaces in the differences with the plumb materials vs the slope (rafter and sub-fascia etc) – this is an invitation for insects etc over time – with top edges cut to match slope, there is no spaces. Same applies to the shed.

      Many would say this is overkill… but I see so much shitty workmanship on job sites, the word rough carpentry applies in full. I see it differently. At the cost of building a house or garage these days, what is a few extra days of labour to make sure things are done the best they can be and possibly extend the life of a home exterior by 25%, maybe even 50% or longer – and having the peace of mind knowing it is done very well.

      Of course, we are talking about a shed, not a house 😉

      Hope that helps,

  2. Excellent and very informative videos. Thank you. One question, why use the 3/4 gravel as the base? I’m reading compactible A type gravel mix is better as there could be air pockets in the 3/4.

    • Glad you like the videos Sean… In regards to the gravel, the air pockets is exactly why we used the 3/4″. With the floor joists sitting right on the gravel we didn’t want the space underneath the shed air tight. The 3/4″ gravel help with better drainage and air under the shed to prevent moisture buildup.

  3. Hi Henry, I’m interesting on a 8×10 shed. I like to buy your plan but I can’t see what kind of shed I’m buying, Do you have a picture of the finished 8×10 and 10×12 so I can see if this is what I’m looking for? Thank you

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Elio

      Thanks for asking… The shed in our videos is the same shed in our 8×10 plans (we built the shed based on the plans which were made first). The 10×12 is similar but larger. Hope the helps.


  4. Can I build a 6 ft. door on the 12 ft. wall if I build the header using 2x8s on the 10×12 shed? I live in western Tennessee and do not get much snow.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Steve

      Without the concern for snow load, a double 2×8 header should be fine. If you want to increase the strength further (recommended), use a full length strip of 3/8″ plywood (length of sheet) sandwiched and glued between the 2 – 2×8’s. The plywood should be the same width and length as the 2×8’s. The plywood increases the strength of the header substantially – especially if glued (using a good exterior grade construction adhesive like Liquid Nails or PL Premium). If your shed is subject to inspection, make sure the header meets local requirements before proceeding. Also, make sure the 2×8’s are free of large knots as these weaken them a lot (e.g. a 3″ to 4″ knot near the edge)

  5. Hi Henry, my door is 3/4 bigger then yours.. and using 2×8 won’t work with proper clearance. Can I use 2- 2x4s and bracing in between for my header, instead of 2×8 or 2×6 using the same door location as your shed?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Sarah

      If you are putting the door on the front or back (gable ends) of the shed you do not need to worry about a header. We only included the header on the front to show viewers how to frame a header should they decide to put the door on the side walls (these are the bearing walls – the ones the truss ends rest on). The front is not a bearing wall.

      If you are putting the door on a side wall (bearing), you should use a double 2×6 header if you can. A double 2×4 (on edge) may be okay but only if you do not get much snow (or none) in the winter. Do note that a 2×4 header would not be to code.

      Hope that helps

  6. Hi Henry;

    Soffit questions:

    Following the plans I’ve got the decking and trusses done and I’m about to place the “big order” for the rest of the materials.

    I was wondering if you have a suggestion for a cheaper and simpler soffit solution than than the T&G you used. Also, I’m assuming we want sealed soffits so should I make a small gable vent on each end? Do we need a bit of venting?
    Based on the plans I’m assuming an 11″ soffit depth. Perhaps use 1/2: ply primed and painted?

    Thank you

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Mike,

      Your idea of using 1/2″ plywood, primed and painted will work fine. Venting is a good idea (in hindsight, I feel I should of added a video on this) and putting these on the gable ends will work well. Best of success with your shed!

  7. Hi Henry,
    Great videos. With your shed plans, can I put the door on the long side? Will the door clear the rafter overhang? The way my property
    sits it would be more practical. Thanks.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Art,

      Putting the door on the side wall is not a problem as long as you use the header as shown for the front of the shed (same applies to windows) – the side walls are actually the bearing walls. We installed the door to swing in so clearance was not an issue. That said, as long as you are using a standard entrance door you should not have a problem with clearance if opening out. If building a custom door, keep it under 84″. In addition, after installing the trusses, use a level from the bottom of the header (or estimated door height) to see where the door will swing out in relation to the rafters (soffit overhang)… if the rafters appear to interfere with the door, you can cut them back a few inches to provide additional clearance (although I do not think it will be an issue as I checked the plans and it looks fine).

      Best regards,

  8. I just recently finish with a two-car carport framing huge project. Now moving onto the roof decking. When I started with the first 4’x8′ sheet of 7/16″ OSB it was not squared and was really way off. Is may framing really way off which it can’t be. How do I fix this before I start with my roof decking? Need your advice really badly!

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Larry,

      That is a tough one to answer without being able to see the project. However, I would first check to make sure your framing below is square, level and plumb all around (a wall not plumb below could put your roofing out of square especially if that is the end you started your roof framing from). The second thing to check is to make sure all your rafter overhangs are the same length (soffit) – if applicable. Also check to make sure your rafters are squared to the main frame below and that they are “All” equally spaced and none are nailed on the wrong side of a layout mark or similar error. Other than that, hard to say why it is out.

      Hope that helps,

  9. Hi Henry.

    Did you have to do anything to protect the cut edges of the smart board? Any caulking on the edges of the boards where they meet on the corners? Thank you in advance.

    • Henry Reinders on

      On the corners, the panel edges are covered by the 1×4 trim. where panels join does not require anything (they should have a painted edge – if not, you can paint these before putting up the panels). After installation of the panels we put on 2 coats of paint – any areas that appeared to have any spaces or where we felt needed protection from rain and damp was caulked with a latex caulk prior to painting.

  10. Why do you put the Smartside panels on the end walls before installing the soffit ladders? Couldn’t you install the soffit ladders first and then butt the Smartside panels up to the ladders?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Tom,

      You could do this but then you would have to add more backing in the gable trusses to nail the panels on. In addition, if you do them after, your cuts will need to be much more precise, doing them before, your angle and cutting can be a little out and it is never seen.

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