How To Build a Shed – 15 Video Series


Learn To Build a Shed (or other projects) With Our 15 Free Videos!

These videos cover every aspect of construction from ground preparation right through to the final installation of trim. Overall, there is about 6 hours of video and they are all free to watch. We have also put together a complete set of plans for all the framing and key construction details in the shed, as well as important construction information, Excel costing sheet, materials lists and more.

Click here to start watching the Shed Videos. We took our time making them and really hope you find them helpful and your shed build successful!


About Author

Henry Reinders has 35 years experience as a Professional Builder, Renovator and Woodworker under his belt (including 3 years apprenticing in his early twenties in Amsterdam, The Netherlands). He loves the country life, outdoors and gardening and will be sharing what he knows on


  1. Hi Henry, thanks for your great videos. I’m debating whether to buy or build a shed and your vids give me confidence to give it a try. In determining which way to go I’m wondering if I could get the approximate cost of the shed materials? I haven’t watched all of the videos so I apologize if it’s been covered there.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Marcello

      In BC Canada, the cost of the shed was about $2100 Cdn. This was using the best materials we could get… so it is likely that the cost would be lower if you can get good deals on materials as well as the price of materials in your location.

  2. I am really impressed with your videos they are well explain step by step I feel like building my own now, I would like to purchase a plans for a 10×12 double doors please let me know if you have it
    Thank you

  3. Hi Henry

    Videos are fantastic. Will be starting my shed soon. What type of drill do you use in the videos? I know it is a DeWalt. When you start driving is sounds like a regular drill but once some resistance is met it sounds more like a impact wrench.



    • Henry Reinders on

      It is an impact driver by dewalt – 18 volt. Now you can get 20 volt. However, I am leaning more toward to HD Makita line of impact drivers these days.

  4. Hi Henry,
    Your shed videos are great. I am planning on building my first shed in my yard. I have been looking all over the Internet at videos and pictures and I really like your design. I do have one question about your design. Your plans so far are the only ones that I have seen that does not have your floor frame on skid/runners. I also would prefer to not have skids/ runners because I don’t want critters [ skunks, snakes, black widows etc…] hiding under the shed. However it as been mentioned by others that you need air flow under the shed because of moisture. What is you opinion on that?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi David,

      There are few things to consider when placing the shed floor frame on gravel like we did. In our case, a prior shed was in its place and buried 3″ into soil with pressure treated 4×4 frame – when we demolished it, the bottom of the walls were rotten but the floor frame was still in good condition – it was over 20 years old so we summarized that a pressure treated frame on 3″ of gravel with good soil drainage would suffice for another 20 or more years. And like yourself, we did not want rodents setting up house under the shed.

      That said, we used 3/4″ gravel to make sure some air could pass through the stone, not a lot, but we felt it was enough to let moisture escape in dry weather. We also made sure the soil under the gravel sloped away and drained to the far back corner so any water passing through the stones would not pool under the shed. We used pressure treated lumber for the frame just in case. I doubt if 3/4″ gravel will keep spiders out, but it should help keep rodents out.

      Based on the life span of the previous shed, we feel this new shed design on the gravel base should be good for at least another 20+ years. Skids are a good idea on ground the does not drain well in areas with high water tables. After 2 1/2 years since we built the shed, there is no signs any moisture issues on the 2×6 base or odours such as moldy or musky smells. It does get a little warm in the summer and Mark is considering the addition of gable vents on the front and back of the shed (a good idea for areas with hot and/or humid weather too).

  5. Outstanding 16 step video. I would like to know if you have plans I can purchase for a 12′ x 16′ shed same as the type in the video. This will be my first time building a SHED .
    Thanks for the information,

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Mel

      Glad you liked the videos! Right now we only have plans for the 8 x 10. Sorry about that.

  6. Dennis Thomson on

    Hi Henry
    Is there any other truss designs in you shed package besides the one in the video you have? The reason I ask is I want a more open truss instead of the bottom chord resting on the top plate


  7. Hello to Henry or others,
    This is a very nice shed and very well built. Incredible videos and attention to detail. I am an advanced DIY’er and do most of my projects by myself. It’s awesome to see all of the tricks to assist when doing that.
    I have done some framing but never built a shed or layed out a design that large. Is there anyway I could get you guys to alter your plans for a 12 X 12 shed. I also plan on building or buying 60-64″ double door opening. Henry was smart on thinking of slightly reducing size by a few inches to save material. I would have a difficult time doing that probably. Altering the roof trusses would probably be harder as well. The walls and foundation would be easy enough. The roof pitch and space that would create is great. The overhang of the roof looks great. If not, thanks for what you’ve put out there anyway. I’ve watched all 15 videos and this is the most comprehensive step by step build of anything I’ve ever seen.
    Again fantastic job to Henry and anyone else involved in the building or planning of this project. Great to watch a solid carpenter and learn from his experience.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Glad you like the videos…

      In regards to other sizes, there are no plans to do so at this time. We only sell the 8×10 plans because we have built the shed based on the plans and know they are exact and work. This is how we plan to do most of our projects so we never have to be concerned that anyone buying them will have a problem

      Sorry about that

  8. Richard Hinsley on

    Hi Henry, I bought your plans and then modified them (I’m a CAD guy) for a 10′ x 12′ (maximum size in my city without a permit). I think the videos and the instructions are fantastic. However, there is one part that I am not clear on – it is the step that I am ready for now. In video 6, installing the trusses, it all makes perfect sense except where you say to attach them at the bottom (on the top plate). I see the front and rear attache to the top plate with the blocking. I am confused by the middle trusses. I see at the end of the video, that you attach the bottoms with the hurricane straps, but what about prior to that? Do you just toenail them in to help keep them located correctly? Thanks for the great work on this!

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Richard,

      Sorry about that and by the way, thank you for buying the plans. We lost some footage at this stage of construction and did our best to make that video complete.

      That said, it is easy, just use nails or screws and fasten through the bottom chord into the top plate of the wall diagonally on both side (toenailed) – repeat on the other end of the truss. In total, you should have 4 screws or nails holding each truss to the top plate of the wall. Minimum length for nails or screws should be 2.5″ to 3″.

      So you are correct, toenailing is standard for fastening to the wall plate. The hurricane ties make sure the trusses won’t lift in high winds.

      Best regards and success on your shed.
      P.S. When you are done, you can show off your shed on our site. Just go to the following URL when you are done and upload images etc –

  9. Hi Henry, can you tell me the paint color/ manufacturer that was used for the paint on the walls of the shed, also was it a satin finish? I assume the white trim was a gloss finish.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Jamie

      We used Behr from Home Depot. The walls are satin (almost flat) and the trim was semi-gloss, not high gloss. But any good quality paint will do.

  10. Hi Henry,Thank you for putting up such fantastic videos for your shed,the plans of which I have purchased and have just started building.As I live in the UK,I have a real problem trying to source the LP SmartPanels and have found a company in England who will supply them,however,they are very expensive here(as are most of the materials here) and the overall cost to build must be nearly double what it is in the US.What would your best alternative sheathing(or cladding as we call it here) be?I was thinking of T&G shiplap boards but would it be ok to use plyboard similar to what you used for the flooring,but obviously thinner?Incidentally,you cannot buy T&G plyboard at 4’x8′ in this country either,so I had to use normal plyboard for the flooring,but I managed ok.I only have the floor finished at present as I am trying to source some windows to incorporate into my design,but again they are so expensive here-around £300 per window!I would appreciate any tips or advice you could give me and I thank you for all your informative tips and I look forward to completing this project.All the best,Colin.

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Colin

      First, thank you for purchasing the plans… I am surprised considering you live in the UK (and I have heard wood building materials can be much more expensive there). I know when I lived in Amsterdam, wood was always an expensive option.

      Not knowing exactly what you have available I can only recommend what I think may be less expensive alternatives. If plywood sheathing is reasonable, I would use this for the exterior first. Then you can source out a finishing material other than wood that may be more affordable (e.g. vinyl siding or similar materials). In regards to windows, have you checked to see if suppliers have economy windows made specifically for sheds or summer cottages (the small type of cottages common in Europe), or is it possible to order online from a source in Europe that “might” offer cheaper windows (provided shipping is reasonable?).

      Now if you use plywood sheathing, you need to consider a house wrap of some sort to go under the finished exterior product (I am not sure what is available over there – here we use Tyvek house wrap, or similar brand name). Do keep in mind, if you go with the plywood sheathing, it likely will change the exterior finishing… subject to what you use (at least I think it will be different from what I show in my videos). For trim and soffit materials you could go composites (vinyl, concrete based, OSB Trim – specially made pre-finished trim made under high pressure with resin glues etc).

      I hope this helps.

      • Thank you Henry,I’m currently looking at HardiePlank cement fibre planks as an alternative siding,would you give that the thumbs up or would you advise against that?I may still end up using T&G shiplap planks if cheaper,but thanks again for your advice,Cheers,Colin

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