How To Build a Shed – 15 Video Series


Learn To Build a Shed (or other projects) With Our 15 Free Videos!

These videos cover every aspect of construction from ground preparation right through to the final installation of trim. Overall, there is about 6 hours of video and they are all free to watch. We have also put together a complete set of plans for all the framing and key construction details in the shed, as well as important construction information, Excel costing sheet, materials lists and more.

Click here to start watching the Shed Videos. We took our time making them and really hope you find them helpful and your shed build successful!


About Author

Henry Reinders has 35 years experience as a Professional Builder, Renovator and Woodworker under his belt (including 3 years apprenticing in his early twenties in Amsterdam, The Netherlands). He loves the country life, outdoors and gardening and will be sharing what he knows on


  1. I will definitely be following this guide, just a quick query how long did it take you to make? I have been wanting to make one in my own back garden for a while but it looks like it will have to be a Spring/Summer project for me next year

  2. Hi Henry. Thanks for the great set of plans and videos!

    I was wondering what you would recommend for a border between the gravel foundation and the rest of the yard. How far out beyond the base of the shed should the gravel foundation go?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Allen

      We used wood landscape ties as a border/separation between the gravel and lawn. For the shed in the videos, we went out a long ways on the left side and about 24″ on the other side, back and front. Why 24″? So rain coming off the roof would not ruin the lawn and wear away the soil – it drips onto the gravel. On the left side, we wanted a clean look and place to store garden stuff that did not need to be in the shed (and no lawn to cut) so we went right to the fence with the gravel. All that said, I feel 24″ makes for a good distance around the shed – both for appearance and rain run-off (minimize erosion).

  3. Roy Uiterwaal on

    Hi Henry,

    my name is Roy Uiterwaal and i live in the Netherlands (Europe). I’m building a blockhouse and i have been watching your video on how to install roofing shingles.
    It was most helpfull and i learned a lott of all your tips and tricks.
    I thank you for that .
    I have just finished the roof today and i’m very proud of the result.
    Good luck with all your further projects.
    Greetings from Holland.
    Roy Uiterwaal

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Roy… glad you liked the videos and that it worked out great for your roof. More videos are coming soon – just have to do some post editing.

  4. Henry:

    I’m so glad I came across you video series on sheds. I never thought of reducing the footprint by 3″ all the way around. At first I was scratching my head, and then I realized that when you add 1/2″ OSB siding, and then your finished siding, your dimensions will be 1.5″ to 3″ larger depending on the finished siding thickness.

    I’m building a 10′ x 16′ shed, with a transom dormer and while it’s not the same as this one, I’m looking forward to watching all the videos (likely multiple times) to pick up any tips, like this one, that I can. If I have questions, hopefully you can help me out.

    PS. I agree with your concept of building stronger. I’m not planning on ripping this shed down and redoing in the next 30 years, so it better last a long, long time.


    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Matt

      Overall the reduced footprint is most ideal for sheds up to 10 x 12, once you exceed that size, the savings on materials becomes less relevant. For example, at 16′ long, you will probably use more that one length of lumber for skirting, upper trim, fascia boards and so on – so the benefit of the reduced length is minimal. For a larger shed with sheathing on the walls I would probably stick to the full length as it will work out best with floor and wall sheathing, stud spacing etc.

      Success on your shed build!

  5. Henry, your video series was fantastic. The finished shed looks beautiful and your explanation along the way was clear and comprehensive. Really well done and I appreciate it. Which makes me eager to see what additional projects and plans you have. You mentioned somewhere plans for a chicken coop and a green house. Any idea when you might post those plans/videos?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Lee

      Glad you like the videos. We are planning on a greenhouse video (an inexpensive easy to build one) after the current project… and a chicken coop mid summer. Right now priority has changed the order of videos and we are filming a garden enclosure that is 7 1/2 feet high and will (hopefully) keep out deer, bear, gophers, rabbits etc – without having to pound or cement posts into the ground. We also just finished a shallow well cover that keeps out even the tiniest of insects. We also had to cut glass and make a foldup sawhorse – so we did a few quick videos on those too – should be posted very soon on our YouTube channel.

  6. Henry, I’m building a 12’x20′ shed and have already built and installed my trusses according to your video instructions 24 in. centers with that making a total of 11 trusses from front to back, I used your jig plan for these trusses and since my building is 12 ft. will my trusses be alright and strong enough for the length and width differences of our two different applications?

    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Robert

      It is hard to say if the trusses you are building are strong enough without seeing them. However, if I was spanning 12′ with homemade trusses I would use 2×6 for the bottom chord (partly for strength but 2×6 also allows for storage in the attic area of heavier items) and 1/2″ plywood for the gussets (and increase the size of the peak gusset to 48″ wide). This might be a touch overkill but since I am not an engineer, I like to build a little stronger than I suspect is needed. You’ll need to make the call on whether you feel these are strong enough for the area you live (snow load is one the most important considerations). All that said, for anyone reading this reply, if you are not sure what is required for the climate and building codes in your area, order pre-fab trusses, they are cheap and will be engineered for local codes and climate.

      One more thing… at 12′ x 20′ I would assume you would need a building permit for this size of shed? If so, and you want to be 100% sure before you proceed, ask your local building inspector if he approves of the trusses. If he/she does, then I would think they should be fine. Lastly, I like using homemade trusses for 8′ and 10′ widths. At 12′ maybe, but other alternatives may allow for better use of the attic space, especially if the roof pitch is increased. A lot depends on the intended use, design and budget.

      Hope that helps

  7. I Henry. I’ve been thinking of building a shed and came across your excellent videos while doing online research for plans and construction techniques. I love the design and architectural details of the shed in the video, and your tips and jigs/blocking for doing solo construction are just outstanding.

    I would like to get your thoughts on the feasibility and possible issues if I were to modify your basic plan as follows:

    Increase overall nominal size to 10′ X 14′

    Add a double door on the long side wall near the rear corner adjacent to rear gable end wall

    Change roof pitch to 12:12 to gain attic space for overhead storage

    Increase truss chords to 2 X 6 for added load carrying capacity in the attic space

    Build on skids instead of flat on ground (I’m in Florida – lots of heat/humidity, and occasional heavy rain)


    • Henry Reinders on

      Hi Gary,

      As much as we like to sell plans, I can’t say they will help much other than to serve as guide. That is a lot of changes and you would be just as well to use the videos and work out the sizes to suit your needs. 2×6’s for bottom chords is a must for storage. For the door on the side, be sure to use the header detail as per the front door in the videos (side walls are bearing – we only used it on the front wall to show how to do it). With a 12/12 pitch, make sure the overhang/soffit does not interfere with doors opening if they open outwards. Lots of heat and humidity? > be sure to add venting, either on the front and back as gable vents, or soffit and ridge venting. Hope that helps and success with your shed build.

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